Hello virtual travelers! We're
still alive and (mostly) well from Mumbai, the commercial capital of
India, India's largest city at 18 Million people, the headquarters of
their Bollywood film industry and, as the tour book reads, "the
glamorous world of film stars and business tycoons exists side by side
with the squalor of slums and shantytowns, where over 3 million people
live".
We are now in the state of Maharashtra, having visited Andhra Pradesh
(Hyderabad), Tamil Nadu (Chennai) and Karnataka (Bangalore).
Incidentally, they pronounce Karnataka very closely to the word
"Connecticut" with the accent in the same places.
kar-NA-ta-ka.
The weather in Bangalore was glorious - in the high 70's by American
reckoning, 40%ish humidity, and a pleasant monsoon-induced rain in the
evening. The hotel we stayed at had tiered outdoor balconies for
everyone and the entry to the rooms as also from theoutside, indicative
of the generally pleasant weather. And for those
security-concerned among you, there was a guard as well as a butler for
every floor.
Here's a few final shots of the Oberoi, a wonderful hotel with
excellent food. Worth the trip. You also see what the
downtown business district looks like from the hotel:
After doing our risk assessment the company took us up to the roof of
their building to take some pix of Bangalore. I also took some
shots of the ongoing house construction next door. So for my
engineer friends, here are some typical shots of Indian construction
techniques. In the second shot the guy bending down in the pit is
using a wicker basket to dig out the mud and throw it into a pile
behind him.
And a couple more shots of Bangalore from up here. Most of the
buildings you see around are actually houses, some of them really
nice. Each is unique, there are not many cookie-cutter homes
around here, except in specially-designed gated communities.
After this it was off to downtown for
lunch at a real Indian restaurant, called "Tandoor" where we had some
very excellent northern Indian food (our hosts said southern Indian was
too spicy). Had Butter Chicken, a curry dish but somewhat sweet,
the best chicken tandoori ever, some excellent basmati and a sweet
fried rice dish that was served covered in actual silver foil.
mmmm Tasty.
In our drives I took some other shots I'm presenting in no particular
order:
A donkey standing quietly
Anyone need a goat?
A monument to the Indian soldiers who died in "The Great War", which we
call World War I.
There was a noticeable Christian community in Bangalore, with dozens of
churches, cathedrals (both western and Orthodox), 7th day Adventist,
even a Baptist Bible College.
We then went shopping for a bit along this very busy commercial
street. It was our first time actually setting foot into a real
shopping district. There were some amazing jewelry stores and
places to buy just about anything and everything. Yep, everything.
Warning:
After shopping we were driving toward the airport and went by this
hotel, which was our first choice but was filled. It's the Leela
Palace, and described by all as the only "7-star" hotel in India, on a
5-star scale.
We had one more stop to make, at an Indin department store called "Kemp
Fort" which is basically Saks, Tiffany, Bloomingdales, and that big NY
toy store whose name escapes me at the moment, all rolled into one huge
store. They give you flyers for this as you get off the
airplane. So here's a few shots from there:
The advertising for their Kids area, and a big kid shopping:
Some of the enormous variety of fabric for women's clothes.
Now that you've seen that, I want to put up, at Rachel's request, this
pair of photos showing Alex at work this day, and Rachel at work this
day:
After this we were off to the airport for our 90-minute flight to
Mumbai, formerly called Bombay by the British. When we were on
the plane, Rachel shook me and said "That guy has a bomb on the
plane." What? "Yes, he even labeled it - B O M".
Rachel, that's the international 3-letter designator for the Mumbai
airport, formerly called BOMbay.... She really needs to get out
more.
The flight had been delayed nearly an hour because the planes were
having trouble getting out of Mumbai to get down to Bangalore due to
the monsoon weather. Monsoon is really more of a seasonal weather
pattern than a particular storm cell. It basically designates the
whole rainy season where storms will come in and out and dump inches of
rain in an hour. The rain was heavy that day so flights were
delayed. As I write this, the storm just kicked up and blanked
out my view outside. Previously I could see about 5 miles, now I
can't see the end of the hotel complex due to the driving rain and
wind. Pictures will appear on the 6/26 page.
There's only 2 pictures for Mumbai for 6/25, one of the Batmobile, and
another of a foot-deep lake that previously was our road:
What else to say about Mumbai? During our 90-minute drive from
the airport (which was planned to take as long as 40 minutes due to
traffic), I came up with a few comparisons I'd like to share with the
folks from home in terms I think you'll relate to. Sorry for any
reading this who are not familiar with the New York area.
Imagine New York. Imagine Manhattan. Or even better,
Brooklyn. Imagine Brooklyn down by the docks. Now imagine a
street market with people selling meat, fruits, vegetables, pots, pans,
clothes, bicycles, lubricating oil, children, animals, furniture,
etc. Imagine them never cleaning up from this street market and
leaving the refuse on the street for everyone to walk in and for
animals to eat. There are no trash cans. Now place this
scene in an industrial area like the docks area of Brooklyn,
intermingled with tiny hospitals, tire re-volcanizing places,
slaughterhouses, internet cafes, metal grinding shops, hip cool trendy
bars, and small houses of worship. Now stretch it out for miles
and miles and miles and miles. Now add the people - everywhere
there are people standing around, thinking of crossing the dangerous
roads with traffic mostly going one direction on each side but not
necessarily so. The people are everywhere, standing, moving,
sitting, sleeping, dying. No one has more than a square yard to
themselves and you have to watch out for the motorcycles driving on the
sidewalk to get around the traffic that isn't going anywhere. Add
the beggars, some are women with children asking for 1 rupee to feed
their child, or perhaps she's selling you the child for 1 Rupee?
We were not sure. Add the lepers with no fingers. Add the
guys with no legs on crutches. Add the old women carrying bags on their
heads. And the smells of all of that above. Now <cough> add
onto that the smoke and pollution from a million 2-stroke engines that
are those little yellow 3-wheel tuk-tuk cabs and motorcycles, diesel
smoke from trucks and buses, and the million other cars, scooters and
motorcycles.
Oh, and it's 10:30 at night, 95 degrees and 100% humidity. As I
get out of the car, my glasses fog up and stay so for 3 minutes.
We hadn't had any problems breathing prior to this part of the trip,
but once we got to Mumbai, Rachel's asthma started acting up, and I've
got a scratchy throat and I sound like I have a cold. The weather
forecast said "Smoky" and they weren't kidding.
As we round the curve for the hotel, we are stopped by armed guards who
check under the car with a mirror and ask the driver to open the
trunk. I guess they don't want their rich hard-currency
traveling visitors to have any problems. But once we get here
it's beautiful - the hotel is huge, beautiful, and they hand you
cold wet washcloths to wipe your face as you check in. Plus
chocolates. OK, we have at least one oasis where we should be all
right.
Sunday should be an interesting day. Rachel's not leaving the
air-conditioned, and hopefully air-filtered comfort of the hotel, while
Alex will take the driver up on his offer of a few hours during
daylight to see the few historic sights Mumbai has to offer. When
we return to our intrepid adventurers, you will know what we think of
Mumbai.